The Dictionary of Costume, R. Turner Wilcox

z

zamarra, zamarro a sheepskin coat worn chiefly by Spanish shepherds.

zarape see serape.

zenana the name for the harem or seraglio, formerly the women’s quarters in an East Indian or Persian house from where women are, or wrere, secluded. Also the name of a lightweight striped fabric, the stripes simulating quilting. Of silk or flannel and used for lingerie or negligee garments.

zephyr a sweater or loose-knit construction made of a silky, tight-twist

yarn.

zephyr gingham a plain-woven gingham with a fine, soft finish done in a variety of colors and patterns such as plaids, stripes and checks.

zephyr yarn an embroidery and knitting yam of a fine, soft woolen or worsted.

zibelline a thick, lustrous woolen cloth with a long, silky nap brushed in one direction. Used for women’s cloaks and capes.

zibet, zibetha a relative of the civet cat of Africa which inhabits India, China and the Malay Peninsular. Its stripes are more numerous and regular, and it yields a scent similar to that of the civet, see civet, civetta.

zigzag a line composed of even, short, sharp turns or angles. Also, an overall pattern of such lines in a cloth or braid.

zipper the mechanical slide fastener first manufactured in the 1920’s and perfected in the 1930’s. Used to fasten dresses, foundation garments, or wherever a trim, concealed closure is needed.

zircon, jargoon a mineral whose transparent varieties are used as gems; red, brownish yellow, blue, various greens and colorless. From Ceylon come smoky, pale yellow varieties, “jargon” or jargoon. Called the “poor man’s diamonds.”

zona wide bands of cloth or soft leather worn by ancient Greek and Roman women over the breasts and around the hips; a wide leather belt that the Greek centurion wore under his cuirass; a hip girdle or a stomach band of wool, or heavy linen or chamoised leather.

zona belt an outer belt or girdle that Jews and Christians in the Levant were formerly obliged to wear to distinguish them from the Moslems.

zori the national Japanese shoe fashioned in many styles of straw, felt and wood. Sometimes the masculine sandal is slightly elevated by a low, broad heel, but the feminine shoe is always flat.

Zouave jacket a bolero style of jacket with rounded corners, of deep, blue Arabian cloth, no collar, no buttons, but gold braid ornamentation and worn with full red cloth pantaloons. Uniform of the Zouave regiment originally formed of Kabyles of Algiers. Many Frenchmen joined the body of infantrymen and in 1838, it became a French unit and fought in the Franco-Prussian War, 1870-1871.

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